Basic rules and defaults of my
(please bear with me, my English in this area is especially lacking...)
The patterns published by me don't contain any suggestions or calculations referring to the type and the amount of fabric required for the garment. This can be calulated individually, according to the cut patterns.
Like North is always upwards on most maps, the grain of the fabric on my patterns is always vertical
The patterns don't include edges for sewing. This means, that you have to add about 1-1,5 cm for side edges and up to 5 cm for waist, cuff, pants' legs or skirt seams, especially if it is going to have more than one elastic band inside.
For correct interpretation of the pictures:
Grey always means the "wrong" side of the fabric.
1. "plain stitching"
I use this technique in almost every case where 2 pieces have to be sewn together along the edges.
Exceptions are extremely stretchy fabrics, extremely fringing fabrics, special patterns etc.
1. sew straight along the edge (wrong sides of the fabric outside)
2. sew with the zigzag function of your machine so as to finish the edge (wrong sides of the fabric still outside)
3. sew a narrow line of stitches on the right side of the fabric for decoration,
the formerly sewn seam on the other side turned into the direction of these stitches.
2. "plain seam"
This seam is used for finishing the hem or the cuffs. Mainly where the pattern is not curved.
For seams for curved parts, see "neckline and sleeve seams"
3. neckline and sleeve
Cut a 2 fingers broad stripe of fabric that follows the curved line of the part you want to sew the seam on.
Sew it onto the corresponding part, right side on right side (see left pic). Turn the seam inside.
Fold the edge under the seam and sew it down narrowly (see right pic).
The small pic in the middle shows the result in cross-section.
4. gathering the fabric for skirts,
pants and sleeves
Always gather the fabric symmetrically, starting a little further from the symmetry axis.
The folds should point towards the sides, that means, away from the middle.
It's exactly the other way around when you look at it from the "wrong" side of the fabric, so be careful with the directions.
Most clothes look better with many little folds than with a few big ones, especially skirts.
Shorts and pants may require a little broader folds.
5. plain pockets
Make yourself a pattern according to your hand's size or the amount of stuff you want to keep in your pocket.
The pattern should have a shape similar to the upper pic on the right. Cut it out 4 times, 2 pairs symmetrically.
Sew one half onto each side of the garment right side on right side, about onto the spot where your hands will be
(see the left pics below). Fold the pocket-halves outwards and lay the front and the back of the garment on each other.
Sew the garment together along the edge, including the pockets(according to the right pic below).
Repeat with the other pocket.